Cheongsam

The cheongsam (from Cantonese Chinese: 長衫) is a body-hugging one-piece Chinese dress for women, also known as qipao (from Mandarin Chinese: 旗袍; pinyin: qípáo), and was ROC's mandarin gown. The stylish and often tight-fitting cheongsam or qipao (chipao) that is best known today was created in the 1920s in Shanghai and made fashionable by socialites and upper class women.

During the Qing dynasty, certain social strata emerged. Among them were the Banners (qí), mostly Manchu, who as a group were called Banner People (旗人 pinyin: qí rén). Manchu women typically wore a one-piece dress that retrospectively came to be known as the qípáo (旗袍, Manchu: sijigiyan or banner gown). The generic term for both the male and the female forms of Manchu dress, essentially similar garments, was chángpáo (長袍). The qipao fitted loosely and hung straight down the body, or flared slightly in an A-line. Under the dynastic laws after 1636, all Han Chinese in the banner system were forced to adopt the Manchu male hairstyle of wearing a queue as did all Manchu men and dress in Manchu qipao. However, the order for ordinary non-Banner Han civilians to wear Manchu clothing was lifted and only Han who served as officials were required to wear Manchu clothing, with the rest of the civilian Han population dressing however they wanted. Most Han civilian men eventually voluntarily adopted Manchu clothing while Han women continued wearing Han clothing. Until 1911, the changpao was required clothing for Chinese men of a certain class, but Han Chinese women continued to wear loose jacket and trousers, with an overskirt for formal occasions. The qipao was a new fashion item for Han Chinese women when they started wearing it around 1925.

The original qipao was wide and loose. It covered most of the woman's body, revealing only the head, hands, and the tips of the toes. The baggy nature of the clothing also served to conceal the figure of the wearer regardless of age. With time, though, the qipao were tailored to become more form fitting and revealing. The modern version, which is now recognized popularly in China as the "standard" qipao, was first developed in Shanghai in the 1920s, partly under the influence of Beijing styles. People eagerly sought a more modernized style of dress and transformed the old qipao to suit their tastes. Slender and form fitting with a high cut, it had great differences from the traditional qipao. It was high-class courtesans and celebrities in the city that would make these redesigned tight fitting qipao popular at that time. In Shanghai it was first known as zansae or "long dress" (長衫—Mandarin Chinese: chángshān; Shanghainese: zansae; Cantonese: chèuhngsāam), and it is this name that survives in English as the "cheongsam".

Like the male changpaos they derive from, cheongsams in the beginning were always worn in conjunction with trousers. However, with the introduction of Western fashion during the Nanking decade, it became a popular choice to replace these with stockings. The formerly purely utilitarian side slits were repurposed into aesthetic elements to highlight the new fashion, and by the 1940s, trousers had completely fallen out of use with cheongsams. As hosiery in turn declined in later decades, cheongsams nowadays have come to be most commonly worn with bare legs. While this development fixated the cheongsam as a one-piece dress, by contrast, the related Vietnamese áo dài retained trousers.

这件旗袍(粤语中文: 長衫)是一种身体的拥抱一块中国服装的妇女, 也称为旗袍(国语: 旗袍; 拼音: qípáo), 中华民国的普通话的长袍。 时尚的和往往是紧身旗袍或旗袍(chipao)是最广为人知的今天是创建在 1920s 在上海和时尚的尊贵和上层阶级的妇女。

清朝期间, 某些社会阶层出现了。 他们中有的横幅(qí), 大多是满族的组被称为 “人民的旗帜(旗人拼音: qí rén)。 满族妇女通常穿一件裙子, 追溯到了被称为 qípáo(旗袍, 满语: sijigiyan 或横幅长袍)。 这一通用术语的男性和女性的形式的满族服装, 基本上相似的服装, 是 chángpáo 長袍()。 “旗袍装松散和挂起的竖直向下的机构、或锥形略一行。 根据法律的朝代 1636 后, 所有的汉人的旗帜系统被迫采取的满族男性发型, 身穿一件队列中所做的所有的满族男子穿的满族旗袍。 但是, 对于普通的非标题韩平民穿满族服装被取消, 只有汉担任官员, 必须穿满族服装, 与其余的平民汉人口化妆但是他们想要的。 最汉平民男子最终自愿地通过了满族的服装虽然汉妇女继续身穿韩衣。 直到 1911, 非长袍马挂不穿是需要衣服的中国男子的某类, 但汉族妇女继续穿宽松的上衣和裤子的 overskirt 用于正式的场合。 这件旗袍是一种新的时尚项目的汉族妇女在他们开始穿它 1925 左右。

原来的旗袍是广泛的, 松动。 它涵盖了大多数的女人的身体, 发人深省的头、手、和提示的脚趾。 在宽松的衣服也掩盖了图的佩戴者无论年龄。 随着时间的推移, 虽然, 旗袍量身定做的, 将成为更多形式的接头和发人深省的。 现代的版本, 现在已被普遍在中国, 作为 “标准” 旗袍首次在上海在 1920s 部分的影响之下, 北京的样式。 人们迫切地寻求更多的现代化风格的服装, 改变了旧的旗袍来迎合他们的口味。 纤细的和形式的接头有较高的剪切, 它有很大的差异从传统的旗袍。 这是高级的这个人和那些风月场和财星的城市, 将使这些经过重新设计的紧固件旗袍流行的。 在上海, 第一次被称为 zansae 或 “长裙”(長衫的普通话: chángshān; 上海: zansae; 粤语: chèuhngsāam), 它是这一名称, 英文为 “旗袍”。

如男性 changpaos 他们来自的长衫在开始时却总是磨损与长裤。 然而, 西方的方式在南京的十年, 它已成为一种流行的选择要更换的丝袜。 以前纯粹的功利主义一侧的狭缝可以相互转化成美学元素的突出显示新的时装和 1940s, 裤子已经完全脱落了, 使用的长衫。 作为袜子反过来拒绝在以后的数十年, 现在的长衫已成为最常见的磨损与裸露的双腿。 而这种发展执着这件旗袍是一件服装, 对比之下, 有关越南船民 áo dài 保留下来的裤子。